William Morris

Morris disliked the synthetic dyes intensely. He thought the colours produced were weak and garish, and criticised them for the speed with which they faded. His comments on synthetic dyes were scathing: 'Of these dyes it must be enough to say that their discovery, while conferring the greatest honour on the abstract science of chemistry, and while doing great service to capitalists in their hunt after profits, has terribly injured the art of dyeing, and for the general public has nearly destroyed it as an art.'

The discovery and introduction into the trade of synthetic dyestuffs revolutionised 19th century textile production. They were easy and quick to use, cheap too, and provided a wide range of previously unavailable colours, but their launch onto the market increased competition between dye manufacturers and subsequently textile producers. Old methods of natural dyeing were quickly abandoned in favour of new dyes.

Morris concluded that the only way of getting the colours he wanted was to explore and learn the techniques of vegetable dyeing for himself. In 1865 he began initial experiments, dyeing plain fabrics and embroidery threads, and studying historic sources for reference.